Zoo Med
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater
Under tank heater that creates a warm area on the bottom of the terrarium. Self-adhesive for easy installation.
View on AmazonLast updated: 2026-03-25
How we researched this: we compared the manufacturer's specifications and label claims, published guidance and reported owner experience. We have not tested this product ourselves, and nothing here is veterinary advice. Editorial policy
Strengths
- Easy installation
- Energy efficient
- Creates natural heat gradient
- Multiple sizes
Drawbacks
- No thermostat included
- Can overheat without thermostat
- Adhesive is permanent
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater: In-Depth Research
Editorial analysis by the FurReviews team, based on manufacturer specifications, published guidance and reported owner experience. We have not tested this product ourselves.
The rule that comes before everything else
Never run an under-tank heater without a thermostat. Not overnight, not "just to test it".
Under-tank heaters have no internal temperature control. Plugged directly into the wall they run at full output indefinitely, and the surface above can reach temperatures that cause serious burns.
The reason this matters more for reptiles than it would for a mammal: many species have poor thermal receptors on the belly, which is exactly where this heat is applied. An animal can sit on a burning surface and not move. Thermostat-related burns are among the most common preventable injuries in home reptile keeping, and a thermostat costs a fraction of the vet bill.
Use an on/off or pulse-proportional thermostat, with the probe secured on the surface the animal actually lies on, inside the enclosure — not taped to the outside of the glass, which reads the wrong thing in the wrong place.
What belly heat is for, and which animals need it
Many terrestrial reptiles digest using heat absorbed through the belly from warm ground rather than from warm air. A snake that cannot reach adequate belly temperature may fail to digest a meal and regurgitate, which is a serious event.
That makes a thermostatted under-tank heater the right tool for terrestrial snakes such as corn snakes and ball pythons, for leopard geckos, and for similar ground-dwelling species.
It is the wrong tool for basking species. A bearded dragon needs overhead radiant heat and light from above, the way the sun works — a mat cannot deliver the basking surface temperature or the light those species require.
Fitting it properly
Measuring the temperature
With an infrared temperature gun or a digital probe, at the surface the animal sits on, with the substrate in place as the animal will find it. Stick-on dial thermometers on the glass are close to useless.
Re-check after any change to the setup — new substrate, a moved hide, a different room temperature.
Failure modes
Mats fail, usually by simply stopping. An animal that has quietly had no belly heat for a week is a real problem, so check the mat is actually warm each time you check temperatures.
They also age. A mat that is years old, creased, or has damaged film should be replaced rather than nursed along.
What a mat does not do
It does not raise ambient air temperature meaningfully. In a cold room, a species that needs warm air as well as a warm surface will need a thermostatted ceramic emitter or radiant heat panel in addition.
It does not provide light or UVB. Diurnal species need both, on a day-night cycle.
Who should look elsewhere
For a basking species, you need overhead heat and UVB, not a mat. For a large enclosure or one needing warm ambient air, a thermostatted radiant panel or ceramic emitter heats a bigger volume more effectively. And if you were going to run any heater unregulated, buy the thermostat first and the heater second.
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater: Common Questions
Do I need a thermostat with an under-tank heater?
Always. Under-tank heaters have no internal temperature control and run at full output indefinitely when plugged straight into the wall. Many reptiles have poor belly thermal receptors and will not move off a surface that is too hot, which is why unregulated mats cause serious burns.
Where should the mat go?
Under one end of the enclosure only, never the whole floor, so the animal has a real thermal gradient. Leave the air gap the mat requires beneath it, and never put it inside the enclosure or where an animal can burrow down directly onto it — substrate on top makes the mat run hotter.
Which reptiles need belly heat?
Terrestrial species that digest using heat absorbed through the belly — corn snakes, ball pythons, leopard geckos and similar ground dwellers. Basking species like bearded dragons need overhead radiant heat and light instead; a mat cannot give them the basking surface temperature or the light they need.
How do I measure the temperature properly?
With an infrared temperature gun or a digital probe at the surface the animal actually lies on, with the substrate in place. Stick-on dial thermometers on the outside of the glass measure the wrong thing in the wrong place, and re-check after any change to the setup.
Can I remove the adhesive later?
With difficulty, and people damage tanks trying. The backing is designed to be permanent. Many keepers deliberately never use the adhesive at all — taping the mat to the stand or resting the tank on top works and keeps your options open.
Where to Buy
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