62-inch rolling bird cage with play top, feeding cups, perches, and a slide-out tray. Suitable for parakeets, cockatiels, and small parrots.
Rolling stand included
Play top design
Multiple doors
Very affordable
Paint can chip
Thin wire gauge
Assembly is difficult
Space: 8/10 · Build Quality: 6/10 · Value for Money: 10/10 · Ease of Cleaning: 7/10
These are our own scores for the things that can be judged from the specification, the materials and how the product is built. They are not Amazon's customer rating.
A tall rolling cage with a play top suits several species and is wrong for others, and the two specifications that decide it are bar spacing and internal dimensions.
Bar spacing is a safety specification. A bird that can push its head between bars and not withdraw it can strangle. Small birds such as budgies need close spacing — commonly cited at around 1 to 1.3 cm — while cockatiels need slightly wider and larger parrots wider again. A cage sold for a small parrot may have spacing that is dangerous for a budgie sharing it.
Check the specification for the smallest bird that will live in the cage, not the largest.
Dimensions. A 62-inch figure on a cage usually includes the rolling stand, so the bird's actual living space is considerably less than the headline number. Read the cage-body dimensions, not the overall height.
For most small parrots, width matters more than height. Birds fly horizontally, and a tall narrow cage looks generous while giving a bird very little usable flight space.
A play top gives a bird somewhere to be outside the cage while remaining in the room, which is genuinely valuable — out-of-cage time is one of the most important things you can give a captive parrot.
Two honest caveats:
Height and territoriality. Some parrots become more assertive when habitually perched above human head height. If your bird starts lunging or resisting stepping down, bringing its usual perching height lower often helps.
Supervision. A bird on an open play top is a bird that can fly off it. That is fine in a bird-safe room and a problem in a room with an open window, a ceiling fan, a hot hob or a dog.
Casters are convenient and they are also the part most likely to disappoint: a heavy cage on small casters over carpet or a door threshold is awkward, and a cage that rolls unexpectedly is unsettling for the bird.
Lock the casters whenever the cage is in position. A cage that shifts when a parrot climbs the bars is a cage the bird will not feel secure in.
Almost every cage ships with uniform dowel perches of one diameter, and replacing them is the single most valuable upgrade to any cage.
Birds stand on their feet all day. A uniform perch loads the same points of the foot continuously, and that causes pressure sores and foot arthritis over years.
Fit natural wood branches of several different diameters and textures. Rope perches add variety. One abrasive perch is fine for nail wear used sparingly, and never as the highest perch — birds sleep on the highest one, and a rough surface under a stationary foot for hours abrades it.
Safe woods include apple, pear, willow, birch, ash and elm. Avoid cherry, plum, peach and other stone-fruit woods, plus oak and yew. Cut only from unsprayed trees, scrub, and bake dry at low heat first.
Zinc and lead are toxic to birds, and heavy metal toxicity in parrots is not rare. That applies to cheap hardware, to galvanised components and to coating that has chipped and exposed the metal underneath.
Powder-coated wire is fine while the coating is intact. Inspect it, and deal with chips and rust rather than ignoring them.
Stainless steel is the safest material throughout and is what serious keepers move to.
Replace cheap toy hardware with stainless quick-links. It is a small cost against a real risk.
Check every latch. Parrots are genuinely good at opening things, and a bird that has learned to open a latch will keep doing it. Carabiners or padlocks on food doors are standard practice with clever species.
A slide-out tray and a grate are what make daily cleaning realistic.
Daily: change the liner, change water, wash food and water dishes.
Weekly: wash the tray and the grate, scrub perches.
Periodically: full cage wash.
Hot water and a bird-safe cleaner, rinsed thoroughly and dried completely. Avoid strong household chemicals and aerosols entirely — a bird's respiratory system is small and efficient, which is why airborne toxins affect it so quickly.
Roughly 1 to 1.3 cm for budgies, finches and canaries, slightly wider for cockatiels, wider again for larger parrots. A bird that can push its head between bars and not withdraw it can strangle, so check the specification for the smallest bird that will live in the cage rather than the largest.
Usually not for the bird. That figure generally includes the rolling stand, so the actual cage body is considerably shorter — read the cage-body dimensions rather than the overall height. And for most small parrots width matters more than height, because birds fly horizontally.
Yes. Almost every cage ships with uniform dowel perches, which load the same points of the foot all day and cause pressure sores and arthritis over years. Natural wood branches of several diameters and textures cost almost nothing and are the single most valuable cage upgrade. Keep any abrasive perch low, never at the top.
While the coating is intact, yes. Zinc and lead are toxic to birds and heavy metal toxicity in parrots is not rare, so inspect for chips and rust and deal with them rather than ignoring them. Stainless steel is the safest material throughout, and replacing cheap toy hardware with stainless quick-links is a small cost against a real risk.
Generally yes — out-of-cage time is one of the most valuable things you can give a parrot, and a play top provides it without leaving the cage area. Two caveats: some parrots become more assertive when habitually perched above human head height, and a bird on an open top can fly off, so the room needs to be bird-safe.