Semi-floating micro pellets for tetras, barbs, and other small tropical fish. Color enhancing formula.
Perfect small pellet size
Doesn't cloud water
Color enhancing
Highly nutritious
Can spoil if wet
Fish may overfeed
Small container
Nutrition: 9/10 · Water Clarity: 10/10 · Value for Money: 9/10 · Palatability: 9/10
These are our own scores for the things that can be judged from the specification, the materials and how the product is built. They are not Amazon's customer rating.
A fish can only eat what fits in its mouth, and the mouths of tetras, rasboras, barbs and similar nano fish are genuinely tiny. Standard tropical flake is often too large, and standard pellets almost always are.
Food that is too big gets mouthed and spat repeatedly, or ignored entirely, and then rots on the substrate. Micro pellets solve that, and it is a bigger deal than it sounds — a tank of small fish fed food they cannot properly eat is a tank with rising nitrate and hungry fish.
Fish feed at different levels and a food that stays in the water column for a while reaches more of them.
A strictly floating food feeds only surface feeders and leaves bottom-dwelling corydoras and loaches with nothing. A fast-sinking food drops past mid-water schooling fish before they get a look in. A semi-floating pellet drifts down slowly, which gives everyone a chance.
If you keep bottom dwellers, they still need their own sinking food — a semi-floating pellet is a compromise, not a solution for them.
More tanks are damaged by too much food than by too little. Uneaten food breaks down into ammonia, ammonia feeds algae and stresses fish, and the fish that look permanently hungry are behaving normally — fish always look hungry.
The practical rules:
Feed what is eaten in one to two minutes, once or twice a day.
If anything is still on the substrate after a few minutes, you fed too much. Siphon it out.
A healthy adult fish can skip a day. A weekly fasting day is common practice among experienced keepers and does no harm.
Fry and very small fish are the exception — they need small, frequent feeds.
Colour-enhancing formulas contain carotenoids — astaxanthin and similar pigments — which fish deposit in their skin. The effect is real and it is the same mechanism that makes farmed salmon pink.
Two things it is not. It does not change a fish's genetics, so a washed-out fish becomes a better version of itself rather than a different fish. And it does not fix colour loss caused by stress, poor water quality or illness — a fish that has faded suddenly is telling you about its environment, not its diet.
Fish food degrades, and vitamins go first. Vitamin C in particular breaks down within months of opening.
Keep the container closed and dry. Never shake food out over an open tank — steam gets in, the food clumps, and it grows mould.
Tip a portion into the lid or your hand, then feed from there.
Buy a size you will use within a few months. A large tub is a false economy for one small tank; most of it will lose its vitamin content before it is eaten.
Store cool and dark, not on the warm hood of the tank.
No dry food is a complete diet on its own for every species. Rotating two or three good staples, and adding frozen or live food — bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp — a couple of times a week, produces visibly better condition, colour and breeding behaviour.
Herbivorous species need vegetable matter specifically, and a blanched vegetable or an algae wafer is not optional for them.
Only what is eaten in one to two minutes, once or twice a day. If food is still on the substrate after a few minutes you fed too much — siphon it out. Fish always look hungry; that is not evidence they need more, and healthy adult fish can comfortably skip a day.
For small-mouthed fish like tetras, rasboras and small barbs, usually yes. Standard flake is often too large, so it gets mouthed and spat or ignored and then rots. Micro pellets also hold together better in the water than flake, which clouds and disperses.
Yes, through carotenoid pigments that fish deposit in their skin — the same mechanism that colours farmed salmon. It makes a fish a better version of itself rather than a different fish, and it will not fix colour loss caused by stress, poor water quality or illness.
Closed, dry, cool and dark — not on the warm tank hood. Never shake food out over an open tank, because steam gets into the container and grows mould. Tip a portion into the lid or your hand and feed from there, and buy a size you will use within a few months.
You can, but variety produces visibly better condition. Rotate two or three good staples and add frozen or live food such as bloodworm, daphnia or brine shrimp a couple of times a week. Herbivorous species need vegetable matter specifically.